Cheeseburger Gothic

Strauss Cafe review

Posted August 1, 2015 into Food & Drink by John Birmingham

STRAUSS.

189 Elizabeth St, Brisbane QLD

open 6.30am - 3pm | Monday - Friday 07 3236 5232.

It's a trap for young players, breakfast in the city. Especially this city in winter. Hobart, Melbourne, even Sydney, they know it's going to be unpleasantly cold sometime in the year. Brisbane, not so much. Oh, it gets cold enough. But nobody likes to acknowledge that, especially not in the way we live. Because of this there are some lovely places to have breakfast in the city, but you can't go there in winter because all of the seating is outside, often in the middle of a wind tunnel.

Strauss does not seem well located. Tucked away at the end of a long, lonely alleyway, which seems more of an afterthought than a design tweak in a city which is desperately trying to reclaim its backstreets, Strauss has plenty of outdoor seating, but you can bustle on past that and grab yourself a warm and cosy spot inside. Indoors, the cafe is all exposed brick, brushed steel, and hardwood. It's very Manhattan loft space. The clientele are city workers, of course, but they seem to be the sort who assiduously seek after the secrets of the city that most punters, happy with an egg McMuffin and a Styrofoam cup of Ronald McDonald's finest Java, never find.

The coffee at Strauss is of a kind that coffee nerds will seek out, travelling an extra three or four blocks if necessary. They will make all the classics, naturally, but you are doing yourself a disservice if you don't allow them to make you a filtered brew.

Whoa! Back off. Put down those pitchforks right now.

By filtered coffee I don't mean the astringent liquid tar beloved of America's roadside diners. I mean fresh, individually made glasses of superfine premium Arabica. The only place I drink black coffee is at Strauss, and I drink it every time I go there. Served in large, delicate stemless wine glasses (well fuck off, that's what they look like) the filter coffees are a revelation. I don't know whether it's the glass, but the flavour profile is so gently complex it always reminds me of drinking wine. And who doesn't want to drink hot wine on a cold morning?

That's not enough of course. We must eat too, and the thing I like about Strauss is the minimal, stripped back menu. Nothing complicated, but everything made from fresh, top shelf ingredients. It was crowded when I had breakfast yesterday, and I took a seat at the bench running the length of the open kitchen area, allowing me to watch the young woman preparing the meals work her magic. The crowds kept coming, the meal dockets rolled in, and she never stopped moving; sawing through great thick logs of freshly baked sourdough, juggling dozens of perfectly poached eggs, sprinkling fresh raspberries on steaming hot bowls of porridge. It was inspiring and not a little intimidating to watch her work.

I had a simple ham-n-eggs combo, that arrived as two pink slices of prosciutto on thick slabs of buttery toast topped by a couple of golden googs. I rarely get past this menu item, but if I did it would probably be to sample the sweet treats which look devastating.

I meant to take Professor Boylan to breakfast here while he was out, but I failed him in that regard. I let the Prof down, I let myself down, I let Australia down.

10 Responses to ‘Strauss Cafe review’

w from brisbane has opinions thus...

Posted August 1, 2015
Brisbane people and our befuddlement about the cold. I have heard southerners say that they have never been colder than in Brisbane. Because of our traditional single skin housing with lots of windows, if it is 7°C outside, it is probably only about 10°C inside, and we don't have heaters and the traditional Brisbane bloke only owned one jumper and he wasn't sure where it was. Bit changed now, partly because so many southerners now live here, for the weather. I used to think a classic Brisbane scene was a 7°C morning and 3 blokes standing around outside in short sleeve shirts complaining that it was cold.

NBlob swirls their brandy and claims...

Posted August 1, 2015
Allegedly in the 70's it was worthy of Special Brach notification if one installed insulation in one's home. It indicated either homosexuality or Green sensitivities, neither appropriate in QLD.

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tqft ducks in to say...

Posted August 1, 2015
I seemed to have missed that place.
Maybe next week I might seek it out

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GhostSwirv reckons...

Posted August 2, 2015

Strauss sounds grouse JB - coffee in a wine glass, what's not to love ... as for Professor Boylan, what other places of interest did you accidentally not take him to?

John Birmingham mutters...

Posted August 2, 2015
We pretty much kept all the good stuff from him.

Rhino is gonna tell you...

Posted August 2, 2015
As it should be until I get there.

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GhostSwirv would have you know...

Posted August 2, 2015

One is reminded of the gay banter between the top ECHELON burgers as like that of those Top Gear ruffians - perhaps you lot should tour the wild lands throwing barbs and bestowing burger-wisdom?

Of course for legal reasons Professor X Boylan should be a party.

Rhino puts forth...

Posted August 3, 2015
Who are the Echelon Burgers?

GhostSwirv swirls their brandy and claims...

Posted August 10, 2015

Is this a test Lord Rhino?

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tqft reckons...

Posted August 9, 2015
Tried it last Wednesday morning.
Busy at breakfast time (before 9am) but that was not unexpected.
Getting first coffee took a while, but they took my order fairly fast.
Had poached eggs on toast (sourdough) with avocado.
Very very yummy.
2nd coffee as a takeaway on the way out.
Very good.

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